扭轉CELINE傳統 A-list人馬，韓流崛起對於高街時尚的影響力孰好孰壞？

過往我們與大家討論過不少首爾時裝周所見所聞，無可否認「韓流」早已成功攻佔世界各地。這股亞洲掀起風潮與當年席捲全球的日本不盡相同，但細心留意“K-fashion”的飛速成長，原來連時裝大牌都不約而同對準韓國市場發展。到底韓流崛起對於高街時尚的影響力孰好孰壞？退一步來說，我們有誰能斷言這條問題？

 

View this post on Instagram

 

FLEXIN IN ALL @DIOR MEN FALL 19 for @10magazine + issue 2

A post shared by YOON (@yoon_ambush) on Jun 30, 2019 at 4:14am PDT

 

View this post on Instagram

 

FUTURE RELICS | ＠Dior Men SS20 collection jewelries w/ @danielarsham x @mrkimjones. Captured textures of Daniel’s sculptures with crystals bits. . #DiorSummer20 #dior #diormen #pfw #jewelry

A post shared by YOON (@yoon_ambush) on Jun 21, 2019 at 11:59pm PDT

「首爾時裝周的品牌對我而言，相對單一。暫時我並沒有推出品牌的打算，如果我創造屬於個人品牌，那必須是最好的。」年頭筆者有幸採訪韓國當紅獨立樂團hyukoh主唱吳赫，當時印象最為深刻莫過於他對首爾時裝周一針見血的看法。

有人說過這或許與民族習性有關，相比起嚴謹內斂的日本民族，韓國棄走長時間培養的獨立美學而是觀察快時尚興起文化迅速捕捉潮流的詞彙與重心。不管你對韓流是否歡迎，我們都受到這股新動力影響。正如Kim Jones把AMBUSH珠寶品牌主理人Yoon Ahn捧上珠寶設計師之位的道理同出一轍。單看看最新季度男裝系列，煥然一新的Dior Men指環與頸鏈，剛柔並濟又不失美式街頭風的潮流觸角。不論如Kim Jones看中的是Yoon Ahn人氣或她對設計街頭時髦配件風格，這步棋相信是走對了。

 

View this post on Instagram

 

with the brilliant Hedi @hedislimane

A post shared by LISA (@lalalalisa_m) on Jun 23, 2019 at 10:17pm PDT

 

View this post on Instagram

 

@celine

A post shared by LISA (@lalalalisa_m) on Jun 24, 2019 at 9:30am PDT

扭轉CELINE傳統 A-list人馬

先從CELINE說起，眾所皆知天橋 Alist人馬向來與設計師的友好交情息息相關。自Hedi Slimane 入主CELINE後其中最為明顯的是他所邀請的A-list觀眾與phoebe philo時期相差懸殊，我們可以理解此舉代表著Hedi Slimane 個人在音樂領域上的熱忠喜愛，但值得留意的是韓流明星的出現。剛剛提到的吳赫便是CELINE男裝秀的 Alist人馬，直到近日紛紛登上雜誌焦點的BLACKPINK 歌手 Lisa可見一斑 。Lisa 佢為 Hedi Slimane 的靈感繆斯向來多次在公開市合身穿「CELINE」標誌黑 T-shirt，身上那個雙 C Triomphe Bag塑造出她的帥氣活力。由此可見，韓流市場也許是Hedi Slimane未來即將政佔的市場。

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A celebration of our new Monogram collection in Seoul . Burberry brand ambassador @hongsick is captured alongside @nasungcityboy, @maetamong, @huiwonwow and @realllllmino wearing pieces from the Monogram capsule and #Kingdom – the #BurberrySpringSummer19 runway collection #ThomasBurberryMonogram #TBRT #BurberryGeneration

A post shared by Burberry (@burberry) on Jun 7, 2019 at 7:06am PDT

 

View this post on Instagram

 

The #ThomasBurberryMonogram takes over . Guest including brand ambassador @hongsick, with @thisloop, @sh_9513 and @hyunah_aa celebrate the new Monogram collection in Seoul. Immersed into a world of our new house code, dressed in pieces from the new capsule . Held at Layer57 in Sungsu-dong, the Thomas Burberry Monogram was showcased through an abstract Kingdom of castles and unique installations – from cardboard building blocks to silver and gold mirrored cubes . #TBRT #BurberryGeneration

A post shared by Burberry (@burberry) on Jun 7, 2019 at 3:42am PDT

Monogram明人效應

接下來便要說說Riccardo tisci 上場後大推Monogram的修改革。英國百年歷史的Burberry格紋在Riccardo Tisci上場後變出各重花款，而他洗版式的Monogram策略明顯是想消費者感受到其品牌年輕化。近日Burberry在首爾也請來眾明星身穿Monogram經典圖騰設計系列出席活動，當中不得不提的是韓國著名藝人劉亞仁和Hyuna 泫雅的支持。撇開品牌辨識度高的字體設計，眾明星比著TB手勢拍照留念也令人感慨Burberry走出傳統的新氣象。韓國如今作為潮流人士的朝聖之地，破格大膽也許是其闖出名堂主要原因。時尚勢力軍未來會否繼續進攻韓國市場界，相信是不少人期盼的重點。